SLICED AND DICED
My ’66 ’Cuda is undergoing a
complete rebuild, it’s currently on
the rotisserie. It was a 273 4-Bbl
with power steering, later swapped
to a 360 auto. My goal is a driver
with modern handling/braking. It
will have a mild 360 with a 4-speed.
It has a 3.23 8¾” with the S/S springs. I’ve
ordered subframe connectors and torque
boxes from Auto Rust Technicians, and
will probably go with one of the complete
suspension rebuild kits and disc brake conversion
kits from the aftermarket (PST, JS
and such). My question is regarding sticking
with my fenderwell headers (Cyclone)
for this project. Do these represent such a
compromise to the system that I should be
looking at new fenderwells variants
and under-chassis headers? If I proceed,
any reinforcing recommended?
‘67-up A-bodies all had beefy doubler plates to prevent strut bushing pull-thru. You need to whip up something like this for ‘66-down As. 2. Adding K-member gussets, esp. in the steering box mount area, is always a good idea, however, reinforcing both ends of the LCA stud tube is a must.
I would surely swap or patch the aprons and go under chassis. The “fenderwell” headers (over-frame, apron hack) are fine for HP, but, besides being simply gross, they severely restrict tire clearance.I don’t think anyone makes chassis beefing kits for 2-G Abodies (you can ask US Cartool, though). The 2-Gs actually are pretty rigid, about the only things I’d do would be a little K-member gusseting (see photos, above), esp. the LCA tubes and the front of the strut bushing hole), and possibly an under rad-yoke plate.