Strut Your Stuff

0


I am asking about front suspension
geometry.
Because the strut arc travels in a
different plane than the LCA arc, the strut
will pull the LCA bottom forward when the
LCA moves up and down from rest (if the
strut length is adjusted for neutral tension
at LCA loaded height). That forward pull
will cause some binding, which would
have an effect on travel, and maybe on
the effective spring rate and damping. So,
I’m thinking of using Firm Feel adjustable
struts, with the length adjusted for just
a slight forward tension with the LCA in
the loaded position. It seems the stock
rubber LCA and strut bushings would
provide the most “give” to allow for the
maximum suspension travel, so that’s
the direction I’m leaning. Or, what do you
think about the option of using a Delrin
or poly LCA bushing, with a stock type
rubber strut bushing (not a Moog,
because they are stiffer than the stock
bushing)? Or, a stock type rubber LCA
bushing, with a Moog strut bushing?
Thinking about how the stock LCA
bushing works, it seems the rubber would
have to twist enough to allow the outer
shell to move over ÂĽËť to allow the tire to
go up or down a few inches. Is that true?
Seems like the rubber would wear out
pretty quick.

Everything you are saying is correct.
Remember that the tension strut design
was also there to absorb road shock and
prevent instantaneous loads from going
to infinity.

The Delrin (acetal) or stock LCA
bushings are fine, the stock Harris
bushings are up proven to be up to the
task. (Urethane is not so great for this
spot). Pulling the LCA forward with the
strut kind of seems like a bandaid to me
(as are the offset UCA bushings), but they
do both serve a need.

Yes, the rubber strut bushings are also
working hard, but I just disassembled a
deadstock ’72 A-body (1pc style bushing)
and they were 100% serviceable. I also
run a ’69 A-body in autoX, road racing, etc

for a two decades with the same set of
urethane strut bushings, so that can work,
too. Most important is to insure that the
front surface of the K-member has enough
gusseting; the factory improved this down
through the years. I have actually seen the
strut bushing tear right through the K, and
the bushings were still intact!


5 1 vote
Article Rating
Subscribe
Notify of
guest
0 Comments
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments

This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. Accept Read More

0
Would love your thoughts, please comment.x
()
x