Manifold Manipulating


Can you give me your take on
the Edelbrock DP4B vs Edelbrock Performer
on a stock 383?
Car is a ’66 Chrysler TC and came with
a 2-barrel 383 per the fender tag (assuming
this is just the 270 HP 383). In the early
’70s, my dad changed the 2-barrel to a
4-barrel Carter 3611S. I’m will be upgrading
the single exhaust to TTI’s dual exhaust
setup and sticking with the log exhaust
I was thinking of swapping out the Carter
for Quick Fuel’s Slayer series QTF-BD-1957

  • 600 cfm carb. Along with the QF carb the
    intake should be changed and forum folks
    have varying opinions on either of the two.
    I have a Pertronix Igniter II with a Flame
    Thrower Coil that I’ll be switching over to
    as well.
    That is all I really plan on doing as far
    as engine upgrades. I did do a front drum
    to ’73 disc conversion with the Mopar Wilwood
    prop valve and your master cylinder
    brake line fittings per your Disc-O-Tech writeup
    and it works wonderfully.
    I recently installed Firm Feel’s rear swaybar
    which was also a major improvement
    and hopefully next week will be installing
    Firm Feel’s Tubular UCA.

    The difference, functionally, between
    those manifolds is very small, a swap

would certainly not buy you much.
For a carb, without a moment’s hesitation,
I would go with an AVS (see page 46).
I’d not recommend a Holley or Holley-like
carb for your application.
The Pertronix is a proven system, but I’d
still much rather have a ’70s-style divorced
(firewall mounted) ECU. Why? Imagine
yourself stuck a few hundred miles from
home trying to find parts, late one rainy
night, for a failed one-off aftermarket system.
Also no need to swap coils, the OEM
oil-filled coil is more than adequate.
You are really urinating directly into
the breeze with the log exhaust manifolds.
Heck, just go back to a 2-Bbl, why
When you finally tear into it, swap on
some 346 or 452 heads, and a bit of a

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