Tech QuestionP B, Imperial, CA, 1968 Dodge Charger 383 Hey Rick, I love your articles. Especially when you make someone say, "Now why didn't I think of that?" But I'm the Schmuck with the question now. I have a '68 Charger 383/2bbl with broken wheel mount studs on the left rear axle (the infamous left hand threaded studs that brake when you try to remove lug nuts by turning them the same way as RHT.) I'm not sure what rear-end turns the wheels, but I know it's all Mother's. What's the cheapest, DIY way to replace the studs? I'm trying to do it myself with limited tools and an even more limited budget. I'm afraid the entire axle has to come out, but hoping there's a way to do it without replacing seals and gaskets, removing brake assemblies, buying special tools, and... did I say spending more money? If I do have to pull the shaft, what are the parts that have to be replaced? I'm getting conflicting stories about the bearing retaining collar. Thanks for all your help(your answers to other peoples questions have helpeded me a lot.) I'd appreciate any details, tips, and, advise that you can think of besides "Next time turn them clockwise!" My new studs will be RHT(at your advice.) -PB P- The only correct way is to remove the axle and press in new ones. But there is, sure, a sleazy, down-'n'-dirty way. Remove the brake drum. Using a large pin punch and hammer, drive out the broken remains; if you're going RHT beat 'em ALL out. Slip the new studs into place. Put a stack of hardened washers on the threads, maybe 1/4 - 3/8" worth. Then oil the threads, and spin a hardened nut on and tighten it, as you torque it up, it will simply draw the stud's knurled area into place on the axle. Stop when the head is flush. Now, never let it be said that this is the the right way to do the job. There's two pitfalls: You can't alway be sure that the stud's head is flush with the axle. Depending on the fit, you may be able to easily feel the contact, maybe not. If it's not bottomed, at some point later (pothole), it may move and have the effect of loosening the nut. The stud my have to be overtorqued (over, say 100 ft.-lbs) to pull it into to place, weakening it. Still, either alternative is better than the snapped studs you have now. One possible alternative is to slightly reduce the knurl's OD with crocus cloth to make it easier for the stud to slide home. If you do this, I'd add a little Loctite at assembly. Rick
|
Main Index | Current Issue | Tech Q & A | Tech Archive | Subscription | Advertisers Links | Contact Info