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Tech Question
Adam Buff, Panama City, FL, 1968 Dodge Dart 360
First of all let me start by saying that you guys rock! I trust no one else for Mopar tech. My question is fairly straightforward.
Are there any differences or prefences in choosing a 360 block for a rebuild? I have a choice between a 1977 360 with approximately 50,000 miles from a diplomat, or a 1991 360 with 110,000 miles from a 2500 series truck. I plan on an over-boar [sic] with Hypereuteutectic zero- deck flat top pistons, topped off with "J" heads with a mild port/ polish, an Edelbrock RPM "Airgap" and a Holley 650 double pumper. I already have TTI headers, and am looking for somewhere near 350-360 +/- horsepower. I am trying to find if one has better castings, and rods. I know that the 1991 motor is a factory roller, and also want to know if there are any performance cams that can be used with the factory valvetrain if I go with the 1991. Thanks in advance for any and all assistance given.
Sincerely, Adam Buff
Adam-
Anecdotal evidence (not supported by anything I've ever personally seen) suggests that pre-'74 360s used 340 cores, and, therefore, should have thicker cylinder walls. But since both of your choices are newer than that, it's moot anyway.
Without hesitation, and subject to a physical inspection, I'd go with the low-mileage passenger car engine. Less thermal cycling, stress, etc. If you toss my advice over your shoulder, you can use any cam and lifters in the '91 Definitely stay away from the roller setup! The rods are the same deal. Put new bolts in whichever ones you go with, a mag check isn't a bad idea, either.
Now for my 2 cents worth! First, why use a double pumper and a dual plane? If it's a high-torque low-RPM buildup you're after, use a vacuum secondary carb, or a new AVS. And, if you wanna go fast, lose the dual plane!
Next, you DO know that those '91 heads - 308 castings - are way better than either X or J castings, right? And they have induction hardened valve seats as a bonus.
Rick
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